BOAT
DETAILING Reviving your boat’s glossy finish
and creating a factory-new appearance is surprisingly easy
if you use the proper techniques. Follow these steps for a
long-lived durable shine.
Gelcoat, the
exterior finish on fiberglass boats, is a porous mix of
polyester resins and pigments that must be sealed from the
damaging effects of ultra-violet (UV) rays, salt, dirt and
weather. Neglect it, and it becomes more porous, resins
oxidize and what remains is a faded, dull
finish.
There is no magic wipe-on, wipe-off remedy that
removes oxidation and has a gloss that lasts a lifetime.
Achieving a like-new shine isn’t very difficult, and
doesn’t require a lot of extra work, especially if
you invest in quality materials and tools.
Do these four steps to achieve a factory-new
shine: wash to remove all contaminants; mechanically repair
the gelcoat by sanding or compounding; chemically bond a
protectant to the gelcoat to protect from further
oxidation; and maintain the surface to extend longevity of
protective coating.
Figure 1 Effect of
sun’s rays on gelcoat: (top) Smooth, flat
surface of new gelcoat reflects light just like a
mirror; (bottom) UV breaks down the molecules, rain
washes out the minute pieces that break away,
creating a rough surface that reflects light at an
angle and looks dull.
STEP
1 Scrub the surface thoroughly with a
quality boat soap and water using a wash mitt or abrasive
Scotch-Brite sponge. Flush with freshwater. Don’t use
automotive soaps or household soaps, which may strip the
wax or damage the gelcoat. If the application instructions
recommend using a certain cleaner with a specific
protectant (i.e. wax) to obtain the desired finish, follow
the recommendations.
Use the “Oxidation
Test” to determine condition of gelcoat. For surfaces
in good condition that only require rewaxing, go to Step 3.
For oxidized gelcoat, wipe with a solvent to remove
silicone, wax or glaze buildup. Spray the surface with
water, which should wet out rather than bead if all
finishes are successfully removed.
Two options for repairing oxidized
gelcoat are: fill the cavities with a quality wax or polish
(hereafter referred to as “wax”); or knock down
the high spots, either by compounding or sanding until the
surface is flat, then follow with a filler. Just applying a
wax on heavily oxidized gelcoat is a short-term repair. The
surface has sheen when viewed from the side, but no deep
luster, and rain in time washes away the wax. Oxidized
gelcoat, whether light or medium, is best repaired by
compounding or sanding to obtain a flat surface, filled
with a glaze (or wax if a one-step product), then followed
with a wax.
OXIDATION
TEST (top): No Oxidation: Mirror image of
ruler reflected in the gelcoat. (middle) Light
Oxidation: Bottle reflected in the gelcoat appears
cloudy, showing the label, but you cannot read the
type. (bottom) Heavy oxidation: Little or no
reflection of bottle in the gelcoat.
BUFF
STUFF
Different buffing pads are used when
compounding and polishing. Wool pads are the most
aggressive and the best for “cutting”
gelcoat. Some detailers prefer foam pads, black for
compounding, yellow for polishing. Use terrycloth
pads (not shown) for applying and removing
wax.
When buffing a compound or glaze
with a hand drill, operating it at 2,000 rpm to
3,000 rpm generates more heat and gives better
cutting action.
Polisher/sander with 15cm (6") disk is run at 1,500
rpm. Keep the pad as flat as possible with pressure
tilted on the trailing edge. A pad weighted on its
leading edge tends to climb and take off and get
caught in hardware. When working on sharp corners,
feather the edges and always have the pad edge coming
off the corner not into the corner so it
doesn’t dig in.
Continually move the pad so it doesn’t rotate
in one place and “burn” the gelcoat. Put
a hand on the surface. If it’s hot, it’s
overworked.
Dressing Pads: Use a spur to clean
pads before first time use to remove loose fibers.
Cleaning used pads regularly to remove leftover sling
doubles their life. Wear a mask when spurring a
pad.
Store used pads in Ziplock bags so they don’t
become contaminated with other grits or dirt, dust
and other contaminants. And don’t mix your
grits. Use one pad for the compounding, one for
glazing (if applying) and one for
waxing.